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Peinture aérographe


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X-Clone, je sais que tu as horreur que ce soit moi qui vole à ton secours mais à une époque j'avais trouvé un forum en anglais ou il était question de ton problème de "tipping". De mémoire je crois que certains faisaient état de sensible amélioration par dilution à l'alcool isopropylique avec un peu de glycérine.

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Voila le texte exact:

"I can't take credit for this one as I got it from another airbrushing forum but I'd like to share it here.

After experimenting with various things including water, Fantastic, rubbing alcohol and glycerine a great new mixture has proven itself to work.

Mix 60/40 water and rubbing alcohol and add about four drops of glycerine. Now use this to reduce your Auto Air paints as needed.

It will greatly improve atomization, flow and tip drying. I've used it now for a week and it is a Godsend for water based paints. I rarely need to pick at the tip of my airbrush anymore and it makes the Auto Air lay down much smoother. The rubbing alcohol also evaporates quickly allowing the AA paints to dry quicker."

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Un autre descriptif détaillé:

"Here is the latest I have tried with GREAT results:

1.5 oz Isopropyl alcohol

.5 oz AA reducer

5 oz water

2 drops of Glycerin

I mix it up in a 8oz squeeze bottle...marked it with a sharpie for the ratios.

Sprays like heaven when mixed 4:1 (4 parts solution to 1 part paint)"

Here's a quote directly from Auto Air...

Hello Everyone. The use of glycerine is a timely topic. We recently included glycerine in our Auto Air Colors formulation this past month. It reduces tip-dry substantially. Adding too much glycerine does risk a loss of adhesion and an increase in curing times. We are adding about 1/10th of a percent of glycerine to the total volume of paint. Avoid adding too much glycerine to any cocktailed mixtures. In regard to newer formulas, yes - we've made them this year and, in our opinion, the paint is working better than ever. We've formulated the 4200 Series Transparent Colors to atomize and spray well through smaller tip-sized airbrushes. All other color series have also received modification to their formulations. The tip-dry issue is one we've always worked on and the recent addition of glycerine makes a significant improvement. The newer formulas can be easily recognized as the bottles label's are white and black (except for the logo) and the color type is printed on the front of the label. Older labels had a colored swatch on the front of the label with the color type pre-printed in the colored swatch. Also, on the label's side where the color name, size and UPC code are printed vertically, there is a batch code. It is an alpha-numeric sequence printed horizontally. If the batch code doesn't contain a "#" sign in it, it is the newer formula. Formula batch codes from 2005 & 2006 contained a # in them which designates they're made with a binder we no longer use. In regard to the latest formulas which have glycerine, that is identified by the batch code as well. As of this morning, our paint lab has yet to publish which codes are the glycerine formulas but, due to this thread, those batch codes will be available by today's end. If anyone would like a list of the colors and batch codes we've added glycerine to, please contact us. This information will be made available on the new Auto Air website which is scheduled to go live by the end of the month. In addition, we also have a new 24-page full color catalog which arrived this week. If anyone wishes for a free copy, please contact us. We can be reached at 1.800.509.6563 ext.1 or info@autoaircolors.com. Thank you in advanced for allowing us to add the marketing plug along with our response.

Sincerely,

Auto Air Colors"

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Hello super les bulles. Bravo pour le talent. :clap:

Pouvez me donner quelques conseils pour peindre des bandes sur les pales rotor (mixte plastique-résine injecté) ?

Idem pour les pales AC ? J'ai des KBDD et pour faire tenir une peinture :?::?::?:

Merci à vous

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